{Backtracking} Project #18: A View to a TNT

My holy grail is to develop a stable of TNT patterns for all the basic garments I like to wear. Ideally, I like to have patterns for a pair of pants, a basic t-shirt, a woven shirt or blouse, a shift dress and a straight skirt.

I chose this pattern from Burda WOF (xxxx). I liked the casual feel and thought it could be a pretty versatile skirt for me. I don't really have need for a formal skirt in my line of work, and I definitely don't need one when I have my SAHM hat on, so this one was perfect.

I made it up in a super-simple-to-sew cotton with a tiny floral print that didn't require any matching at all. I was looking for the easiest project in the world. I took my time with the details, knowing that I would be coming back to this skirt over and over.

I don't know why I feel compelled to include all these photos other than they exist! LOL.
It's really hot here ATM, so you're getting no make up and frizzy hair.

For this first version, I omitted the cargo pocket. It just wouldn't have looked right in my fabric anyway. I took care to stabilise the pocket edges with fusible seam tape so they wouldn't gape. I changed the order of construction with the waistband to allow for easy alterations in the future. I used Debbie Cook's Fly Front Tutorial (which I use for every single fly front that I sew). Finally, I used a technique I learned from the Threads Insider CD to mitre the uneven corners inside the walking vents.

I'm fairly sure I would have added some extra width to the front and omitted the darts, but it was a little while ago now and I can't remember. I'll have to check the pattern when I sew up another one, because I have no doubt that there will be more.

Next time, I'll need to be sure that the waistband is snug, as this one is a little loose. It's pretty easy to take in, but it's not dire yet. I'll wait until after Christmas, I think, before adjusting any waistbands! LOL.

It sat in the wardrobe for a while because I didn't have a top to wear with it, but I bought a couple of plain t-shirts last week that work with it. So now I can at least wear it for shopping and school pick-ups. I think I need to make a better blouse to wear with it if I'm going to wear it to work.

Stash Projects #19 - 22: Summer Pyjamas

It's been a while since I've posted a proper sewn garment. I HAVE been sewing lots, but I've been finding it difficult to keep up with the photos. I took a bunch yesterday so I've got a few things to show you over the next week or so.

I've been trying to keep on track with my "50 Stash Projects" and have been fairly successful. I've been mainly sewing pretty simple garments, but they're what we need at the moment and it's still putting my stash fabric to good use.

So, when the weather turned suddenly hot here, my DD found herself without suitable sleepwear. Luckily, the stash came to the rescue...

I tried to use up all the odds and ends of fabrics, so I concentrated on making sleep shorts and paired them with RTW t-shirts. I did have visions of appliqueing wonderful designs on the tops to tie the whole ensembles together, but DD nixed that idea. So, plain tops and simple shorts it is.

I used the Ottobre "Sleep Well" pants pattern as a starting point for these shorts. I made them with a little more ease (1/2" added to each side seam), dropped the front waistband significantly (DD likes to wear her shorts under her tummy still! Toddler Style at its best!) and added a soft stretchy yoga style waistband. Obviously, I also significantly shortened the legs! LOL. I found that I had to ease the pants into the waistband a little, simply stretching it out as I sewed the two together wasn't enough.

Pattern for Shorts (Ottobre 06-2011-40):

I've made 2 pairs of shorts from this: the Yellow Polka Dot pair (#19) and the Ruffly Cupcake pair (#20). I don't have photos of those. Apparently, DD is getting reluctant to have her photo taken so I choose my battles. Simple PJ shorts isn't a battle I'm prepared to fight just yet! :-)

And, because I'm an indulgent mother, I agreed to make a set from this pretty pink/purple floral cotton which had been given to me when DD was a baby. There was just too much fabric to make just the shorts. I thought it would make a pretty blouse for DD, but she really wanted a pyjama set.

I'd already traced out the Ottobre 06-2011-39 Pyjama Top in a fit of madness, so I used that for the top and the standard shorts for the bottom.

Pattern for Top (Ottobre 06-2011-39):

All was going well with this pattern, until I attempted to put in the sleeves. They just weren't comfortable for DD to sleep in. She's normally averse to sleeveless garments, but it was the best option in this case. At first, I thought it was because DD isn't used to wearing woven garments, but I tried putting in knit sleeves, and they didn't feel any better. I think what's happened is I must have sewn the tucks a little too deep and that's added up to a narrower-than-expected front bodice. In the end, the top is working well with no sleeves, so it IS getting worn.

Here is DD in the final outcome. I had to pounce on her as soon as she got up, before she was even really aware I was taking photos. There was still some resistance, but she was too sleepy to put up much of a fuss! LOL.



Pink/Purple Pyjama Set

Pants Fitting: A New Video

If you recall the pants muslin I showed a few posts ago, you'll remember that the pant legs on my first muslin were swinging in towards the inseam, leaving some fairly obvious drag lines. I showed (pretty briefly) the alteration I had to make to straighten up those legs and the end result in my next muslin.
Now, I'm not one for tutorials, mainly because I have such a slapdash approach to most of my sewing, there's no real point in taking progress photos as there's no guarantee that anything will actually work out.
However, if you were interested in seeing that alteration in more detail, you're in luck! Glenda, the owner of Sure Fit Designs, has put together a video outlining the process. Just click on the picture below to watch the video. It's not that long, and she explains the alteration beautifully!

 

 

While you are there, have a poke around all the other videos that Glenda has made. There's such a wealth of knowledge available to us, it's amazing.

 

 

(Just as a disclaimer: I am not affliated with SFD in any way. I'm just a happy customer who is super impressed with the results I've achieved using their pants kit and the customer service I've received.)

No photos this time: Regaining Focus

Just trying to gain some focus here...I went on a cutting binge last week and, so, have a few garments ready to hit the sewing machine... I am gearing up to put the nose to the grindstone today so hopefully will be able to update this list a little by tonight.

In the final stages (only need a little bit of work to finish):

• Knit dress for MIL - DONE
• PJ top for DD - DONE
• Chocolate brown pants for me - DONE

Work in progress (needs a fair bit of work to finish):

• Chocolate brown linen dress
• {Crochet Project} Jenny King poncho - DONE
• {Knitting Project} Tiny Tea Leaves cardigan

Currently cut out and waiting for construction:

• Denim capris
• Denim skirt
• Floral skirt
• PJ shorts (x3) for DD
• Maxi dress for DD
• Art Caddy (Christmas gift)
• Purple Knit Top - Test for Vogue 8649 - DONE
• Olive Knit Top - Test for New Look 6648

Projects which need to be cut and completed soon:

• Jalie Scarf Top (Christmas gift) - DONE
• Car Seat Organiser
• Knitting bag and Needle Roll
• Second knit dress for MIL
• Tops to go with the pants and skirts I've been making! :-)

On the good news front, I can add to my completed stash projects tally. I sewed a Halloween costume for DD totally from stash. No pictures, though. What kind of mother sews her daughter a cute Halloween costume, decorates the house even, and doesn't take any photos at all?

Returning to Pants Fitting: It's a Win!

With summer fast approaching, I need to restock my wardrobe with shorts and capris. I'm certainly not adverse to skirts and dresses, but I do feel more comfortable in pants.

 And so, I've returned to the Sure-Fit Designs pants blueprint. I was pretty happy with the first muslin that I made from this pattern, but the legs weren't hanging straight.

So, today, I made an alteration to my first version and sewed up another test pair. Amazingly, I think they are almost perfect. One leg has just the tiniest wrinkle - perhaps I need to let out the inseam on that side only - just a small amount, but at least then both sides would look the same.

(Warning: These are not the most flattering shots ever, but I thought they might be helpful to some other plus-sized girl struggling with getting pants to fit properly.)

 

 

 

To make the alteration, I measured down 2" from the crotch seamline and drew a line straight across my pant leg (on both front and back pieces). This line was perpendicular to the grainline. I then cut along that line, leaving a hinge on the inseam seamline. I overlapped these 2 edges at the side seam by 2", which blended to nothing by the inseam. I figured out how much I needed to overlap by trying on my first muslin and pinning out the wedge. I just measured how much I had to pin out to get the legs to hang straight and transferred this to my pattern.

First muslin with proposed alteration pinned out: Front

First muslin with proposed alteration pinned out: Back

For my first 'real' pair of pants, I'm going to just add a fraction of an inch to the side seams from the hip up as the side seam looks as though it's pulling slightly to the back. I'll also add some length to the leg. They are almost the perfect length now, without having taken up any hem at all. This means I need to add a hem allowance to the current pattern. Not a big deal.

Can I just point out that this fit was achieved by the second muslin? That is outstanding, and I'm totally sold on the Sure Fit Designs system. I've got the dress kit and am now super keen to try that one. It might take a little while, though, because I'm going to be busy sewing up some new pants!

Back on Track: Projects 16 & 17: One 4 All Stylish Swimsuit (Frilly)

Seeing as though I've got a sewing list a mile long for this summer, I thought I'd best get moving on it, starting with the easier garments first. Obviously, that involves sewing for my daughter as there is little fitting involved.

First up, she desperately needs some swimsuits. I'd purchased this downloadable pattern a little while ago on Etsy, and we were both keen to test it out. The fabric I used for the test garment (I've yet to get pictures on DD) was part of a bulk lycra buy-up several years ago from Make It Fabrics in Brisbane. DD informed me that she didn't like it as I was cutting it out. Luckily that tune changed because I'm pretty happy with the end result.

 

I used the ruffler foot to gather up all that green lycra. I set it to maximum rufflage for a super frilly look. The skirt ruffle was just over 2 widths of fabric. It gives the skirt a nice weight. I'd like to try a suit with a less frilly frill.

Here you can see the little pants under the skirt. Cute!

The pattern comes with more than 4 different variations.There are two different size ranges. We ended up with the 6 - 16 sizes. DD chose the suit which included an overskirt. She did check the pattern photos a few times to make sure I hadn't sewn it wrong, so luckily the final result looks pretty similar to the front of the pattern!

The writer of the pattern also has a blog where she has shown lots of different versions of this pattern.

One 4 All Stylish Swimsuit (Link to Etsy store)

As far as the pattern goes, it was pretty good, but there was some funky drafting, particularly with the skirt pieces not joining up properly in the pattern stage. I'd say that was more to do with digitising the pattern, rather than poor drafting.

The instructions were fairly good, but there were a few spots where I was glad I had some swimsuit sewing experience already. I think the pattern needed a little more testing/proofreading, but all-in-all, it's a gateway to a really cute swimsuit. DD has already picked out the fabrics for her next two, so that must mean it's a winner.

The fit was good. I have lengthened the body by 1/2" for the next pair.

Look, I've even managed to get photos on DD, and an action shot!

 

 

 

They performed well during this afternoon's swim and DD has already chosen the fabric for another 2 swimsuits. This time, though, she doesn't want the ruffles! Looks like I'll have to put my ruffler foot away again. :-)

 

I've also finished a 2-piece Kwik Sew set, but it's too big, so has been put away for next year. I've got to trace out the smaller pattern tomorrow and have another go. Stay tuned for more swimsuit action!

 



More Sewing Plans for Summer (or the value of teaching your child to budget)

Yesterday, I had the glorious experience of shopping for my daughter's summer wardrobe.

In preparation for this expedition, on Tuesday, we dragged out all her summer clothes that had been stashed in various locations around the house for the cool period we get in Queensland. A mammoth trying-on followed, accompanied by moans and groans and exclamations of boredom. My daughter handled it really well, though! ;-)

It seemed as though she had grown out of nearly everything she owned. Great.

Anyway, in the interests of teaching her how to cultivate a workable, affordable wardrobe, we made a list of what she had and what she needed for the summer ahead (which, just quietly, seems to have arrived here already).

We also perused the fabric stash, and went through the pattern collection..just to get an idea of what she liked and what was possible with no expense.

Armed with our information, we braved the shops. She was SO EXCITED ... for about 30 minutes. Then it became a drag. I set her a budget of $200 to cover everything she needed - tops, shorts, skirts, swimsuits, rash shirts, PJs, shoes, accessories...everything. We talked about how to get the best value for your money and how budgeting is not evil. If you manage your money wisely, you can have the things you want guilt free. How good is that? I also may have mentioned that items sewn by Mum from stash were free. Any fabric purchased would have to come from her budget, but labour would be paid for with love (and cups of coffee!). She seemed to think that was a good deal. Not bad for a 9 year old.

In the end, she handled the whole experience admirably well. She concentrated on looking for things she knew I couldn't really replicate (things with prints and foil transfers, etc) and ended up with enough money to buy her ABSOLUTE FAVOURITE DRESS EVER from Pumpkin Patch (which I didn't have the heart to tell her I could make for a lot less - it's pretty simple). She was happy and so was I. That, my friends, is a great shopping trip.

The.Best.Dress.Ever :-)

Source

Of course, I now have a few more items to add to my summer sewing list. But, on the upside, I get all my coffees made for me for the next week and a bit while we're on school holidays.

Just so I don't forget what I've promised to make, here's a list:

• Black sequin circle skirt
• Several sets of summer pyjamas
• 3 or 4 swimsuits (we have a pool)
• 1 maxi dress
• Black drapey bolero (based on the hot pink one she already owns)
• 2 everyday skirts
• 1 dressier skirt (glittery denim)
• 2 everyday shorts
• Black capris/long shorts

I'm fairly certain that I have the fabric to sew a few things from this list, otherwise there'll be a quick trip to The Fabric Store in my future.