In Search of a TNT T-Shirt Pattern

I really like the style of t-shirt that Marcy and Katherine Tilton design and sew. I've had my eye on their Craftsy class for a long time and, when it was half price last weekend, I bit the bullet. Unlike any other Craftsy class I've bought, I binge watched all episodes and had the whole thing finished by the end of the weekend.

The Ultimate T-Shirt Craftsy Class

Some facts about knits and me:

• I'm not scared of knits.
• I've sewn with many different types over the course of 20+ years.
• I have the appropriate equipment to construct knit garments with a professional finish.
• I love to wear knits.

BUT, I don't currently have a reliable TNT pattern for a basic t-shirt.

That is going to change.

The class comes with a pattern, but I just couldn't wait for it to arrive. I was too excited to get started. I'm using Ottobre 02-2007-02 in Size 52 to perfect a basic pattern which I can then use to make all kinds of variations.

Preparing the Pattern

In The Ultimate T-Shirt class on Craftsy, Marcy Tilton recommends pin-fitting the pattern tissue. While this may seem a bit ridiculous, given that a t-shirt often has negative ease, I figured I hated tight t-shirts anyway so I was prepared to give it a go.

After pin-fitting the tissue, I ended up making a few alterations to the pattern (all in line with the information presented in the Craftsy class):

• adding about 1" (at the bust) - 1 3/8" (at the hips) to the side seams of both the front and back body, and about 5/8" to the side seams of the sleeves. I'm pretty sure the t-shirt would have 'fit' without this, but it would have been a firm fit - with zero ease. Not a look I like for me. 
• The Tilton sisters also sew their t-shirts largely on the sewing machine with a 5/8" seam allowance. I've always constructed mine on the overlocker with a 3/8" seam allowance, but I thought, since I had paid for this class I may as well follow their instructions at least once. So I added 5/8" seam allowances to my pattern. 
• 1/2" was added to the length of the front to allow for the front of the body being larger than the back.
• I also, at the advice of the Tilton sisters, added a 1" insurance seam allowance at the front and back body, and the sides of the sleeves. I didn't end up needing those in the first fabric I chose, but they'll stay for the next few versions...just in case! 
• (Not in the class) In anticipation of problems with the sleeve cap depth, I added a 1/2" to the height of the sleeve cap, blending to nothing by the end of the curve. I still am having issues with the sleeve/armhole, so maybe this wasn't the right thing to do. 

The reason there are two different outlines is because my measurements put me in a size 50, but when I compared the flat pattern measurements to my own, I realised I wasn't going to like the fit of the size 50.

Constructing the Garment

I'd committed, in my mind, to following all the advice given in The Ultimate T-Shirt class I'd taken on Craftsy. In this case, this meant sewing my t-shirt largely on the sewing machine. With 5/8" seam allowance.

There were lots of little tips that I picked up...like

• Staystitching the neckline of the t-shirt. I'd never bothered with that before - on a knit garment. 
• Staystitch Plus on the sleeve cap helped to prepare the sleeve for easing it in to the armhole. 
• Preparing the hem BEFORE sewing up the side seams

I typed up a list of the construction order...as I plan to make many of these. I'd love for it to become automatic - and it nearly is, but there are a few extra steps that the Tilton sisters suggest, that I'd like to trial for a while.

The biggest difference, I believe, is the number of times they had you try on the garment before the finish. I think, even though fit is of paramount importance to me, I'd become lazy with this aspect of knit sewing.

Hemming Tip! Use a piece of tearaway stabilizer under the seams as you are hemming on the coverstitch machine. Finally, I'm able to maintain a straight stitching line in this bulky area without snipping (and weakening) seams.

I AM alive and I have been sewing...

Nothing flash, but wanted to keep a bit of a visual record of what I've been sewing lately...

First up is a series of tops I made based on a RTW top I bought from Autograph last year. I loved the style, but unfortunately, the original top developed little holes all over it after only a month or two. It really just confirmed why I sew.

Anyway, I've actually made 4 tops but one of them was a wadder due to poor fabric choice. It was a mystery cotton blend that just grew widthways until the neckline would have fit over my hips! Yikes!



I look REALLY cranky here, don't I? I'm not that unhappy, my 'photographer' took the shot before I was ready. There's a reason I usually use a tripod and timer! LOL.

I love this version best of all. It's made from a slightly stretchy mesh fabric I bought at Spotlight late last year. Obviously it's very transparent and, rather than waiting until I had the motivation to sew a cream tank to wear under it, I just bought one.

 

It's not been ALL selfish sewing - I've been working on a very involved patchwork floor cushion for my daughter (I'm NOT a quilter and have the lack of skills to show for it!). When I hit a roadblock in that project (lack of black continuous zipper), I decided to dig through the UFO bin and found these PJ shorts that I'd cut out in December 2012. Time clearly wasn't on my side, but I just sewed them up with tiny seam allowances and they fit fine.

Then I quickly traced off an Ottobre pattern (04-2013-33 - 'Ruler' raglan t-shirt) and made a matching top from some scraps I had lying around. I really was using this as a wearable muslin for this year's winter t-shirts. She has nothing to wear for winter! Nothing! And I'm too tight to pay for plain t-shirts when, with a good pattern, they can be made so quickly and with a much higher quality. I loathe twisted seams and that's all it seems you get with store bought t-shirts these days.

 

 

I'm fairly sure there's been other sewing, but I can't remember right at the moment. I may update once it comes back to me. Until then, I'm back to work on the Minecraft cushion.

Another one...but not for me

It's my turn to shine my halo, I think, after a rash of sewing and knitting for others.

First up is another Crafty Mama's Lovely Layers Top. This time, it's not for me, but a birthday gift for my mum. It's in the size L and made from a gorgeously soft Metallicus knit picked up from The Fabric Store in Brisbane.

 

 

 

I just added a simple neckband, same as I have for all the other tunics, and turned and stitched the armhole hem with my coverstitch machine. You can't see it very well in these photos, but I did a rolled hem for the bottom.

Next, encouraged by my cousin to put more effort in to a fancy dress party that my daughter was attending, I sewed her a skirt. Now that might not seem like much, but this was a box-pleated, LINED skirt, complete with a waistband and invisible zip. The only reason I acquiesed to her request was that it looked like a fairly good wardrobe staple that she would wear more than once.

It was an Alice in Wonderland party and she went as the White Rabbit.

I used an Ottobre pattern (6-2012-32: "Jenkka") and made some modifications. Firstly, it's meant to be a loosely pleated skirt, but Miss10 wanted sharper pleats. That was no drama, I just topstitched down the first bit of each pleat and pressed a sharp crease. The only other change was to shorten it (dramatically from this apparently old-fashioned mother's point of view) by about 4 inches. I used a size 146, drifting out to a 150 at the hips. I tried to do a blind hem on the sewing machine, thinking that I'd be really clever, but it didn't work out so well. However, using the galloping horse test, it was good enough and the experience has motivated me to learn how to do it properly.

The skirt is a little twisted in this photo, the pleats are appropriately centred.

We even found a tail!

Finally, a friend of mine is getting married, and she's an incredibly generous person and a lover of handmade things. I've been working on a knitted lap blanket to give her for a wedding gift. It won't be ready in time, I severely underestimated how long it was going to take me to knit this monster...but I know she won't mind. I'm using Bendigo Woollen Mills Classic Wool in 12 ply in the colour Raffia. I like the colour. I don't mind the yarn, but it's unravelling a bit as I knit with it. I'm not sure whether that's just my knitting style, or a characteristic of the yarn or ply...but it looks fine in the finished product. I just have to be really careful not to split stitches.

I'm still working on a dress that I am sewing for my mother-in-law, then I'll be free to focus on some sewing for ME!

With that in mind, I started getting out my summer weight fabrics and putting them in my expedit shelves in my sewing room. I like to have the appropriate seasonal fabrics out on display (they don't get any direct sunlight). Mainly it's for inspiration, but it's also a means of keeping the stash somewhat under control. This time, I thought I'd try something a bit different. Typically, I organise by fabric type. This time, I'm going with colours. This pile of green fabric contains knits, cottons, linens, stretch sateen, georgette, you name it! I'm really keen to sew my way through this pile as green is my absolute favourite colour. I do have to be a bit sensible and balance it with a hefty dose of neutrals or I could end up looking a bit like Kermit!

I think I need an intervention

It's not that this is the third version of the Crafty Mama's Lovely Layers tunic that I've made in the past few months, but that I've still got plans for many more!

 

Quite simply, I'm loving the ease of it all - the sewing AND the wearing.

This time I made the elbow length sleeves. Seeing as though I have fairly full arms, I added an inch to each side of the sleeve. It turns out that I didn't really need to add quite that much. While the loose sleeves ARE very comfortable, I will remove some of that ease for my next version. Oh yes, there will be a next version!

In fact, after looking at the photos, I'm tempted to even go down a size over all for future tops/tunics. It's a very forgiving garment. I have a bust measurement of 121cm, which puts me right in the middle of the largest size. I loathe clingy garments, but I do think I could go down a size and still be comfortable in this tunic.

I used a beautifully soft jersey knit which I purchased from East Coast Fabrics at Springwood - fairly recently, too, so I can't even feel justified about using up old stash. But this fabric is to die for - I'm glad I bought several metres because I'm just about to cut out a t-shirt from the remains. Black isn't supposed to be 'my' colour, but I've decided lately that I don't really care. I like it, and that's what really matters, isn't it?

I made the leggings I'm wearing, too. They are made from an Ottobre pattern, 02-2008-16, graded up to my size (52). I know there's a pattern for leggings in a later edition, which comes in size 52, but I'd already established this pattern as a TNT and it didn't seem to be worth the effort to change. The fabric is a cute, soft royal blue and black animal print from The Fabric Store in Brisbane, also purchased fairly recently.

After finishing the tunic, my only problem was finding appropriate accessories to wear with the outfit. As luck would have it, TS14+ were having a 50% off sale on their necklaces, so I snapped up a few, as well as a gorgeous blue scarf (which I'm wearing in the picture below). I quite liked more, but thought I should show some signs of restraint. There'll always be another sale, right?

Yarny Crafting

Lately, I've been working on a few yarny projects:

A simple ribbed hat to keep my head warm in the snow! I plan to make a matching cowl with the leftover yarn.

 

A Slouchy Bubbles hat made for a friend who's going through chemotherapy.



 

Another Tiny Tea Leaves cardigan. This one is not quite complete. I still have to add buttons and weave in the ends. I originally made this for my daughter, but it's a bit small, so it's going to my lovely niece.

 



My favourite project of the moment! A Windward shawl in lovely Noro yarn. It's quite a simple pattern (hasn't stopped me from making mistakes, though) but I LOVE seeing how the colours change. I'm about halfway through this one.

My latest cast-on...another Bendigo Woollen Mills yarn, this time a 12 ply Classic (100% wool) yarn. I'm making a Cable Blanket for a friend for her wedding in September. I've not used a 12 ply yarn for a while and can't quite believe how quickly this is knitting up. I think I may even stand a chance of getting this project finished on time!

As you can see, I have a few projects that are still in progress. I just can't commit to one project at a time. I get too bored! ;)

Clearly I'm not a bag lady...

I've wanted to make a project bag for my knitting for some time now. Being the queen of procrastination, it was quite possible that I would never have got around to it. But I was given a push when my friend, Sue, posted about sewing one of these bags:

So, I dutifully chose some fabrics from my stash and proceeded to put the bag together with much moaning over a couple of days. You see, not being a bag maker, I overestimated the thickness of interfacing I would need. I didn't want the thing to be flimsy, so in a complete overreaction, I used the thickest interfacing I had, effectively turning this cute little bag into a cardboard box. As I'm sure you can imagine, sewing cardboard doesn't equal easy OR fun. Oh well, lesson learned for next time.

This bag certainly does NOT represent the best sewing I've ever done, but at least it's finished. I'm not happy enough to use it as a knitting project bag, but it has been put to good use storing (secret) things in the bathroom cupboard.

 

I'm already planning my next version (using MUCH lighter interfacing) which I plan to use for my knitting. As well, I think these little lunch/project bags would make great teacher presents at the end of the year, and seeing as though I already have all the materials necessary to make them, they'd be virtually free!

Thank you!

I just wanted to do a quick post to thank you all for the fabulous comments on my Lovely Layers tunic. I really appreciate you all taking the time to visit and leave a comment.

I also wanted to let Barb know (I couldn't find an email address, Barb) that unfortunately, the fabric was not a recent purchase. I've really been trying hard to sew from stash for a while now, and so this one would have been purchased over a year ago. I have my fingers crossed for you that they still have some in stock.